As a lifetime resident, Orhan Pamuk writes that "Istanbullus" of his era see their city in black and white-that a monochromatic view of the city reflects a certain kind of melancholy or "huzun" that is common to residents. However, as a visitor to the city of Istanbul, I was taken by the bright colors of women's headscarves, the shining primary colors of the ceramic and the brilliant blue tiles of the Sultan Ahmet Camii mosque, (often called the blue mosque) as well as the sky. In my home we've had a Kilim rug on our bedroom wall for years. The colors, textures and patterns of Turkey inhabited my dreams after returning to the US so that upon waking and seeing our rug, I wasn't sure where I was. I was physically back home in the US, but a part of my heart now has a new home in Turkey. I can better understand why so many Turkish people are so proud of their country.l
Our group was fortunate to get to know many regions of the country. We saw the busy city streets of Istanbul with dusty sidewalks (that are washed nightly), endless towers of apartment buildings, beautiful mosques, shops and the overwhelming bazaars, but we also saw open prairie lands, rocky mountains, lush coastal regions and sunny beach harbor fronts. The lunar landscape of Cappadocia was other worldly, yet it was easy to imagine people sitting at the picnic-style tables and benches that had been cut from the living rock. Konya was like a pincushion, there were so many minarets piercing the sky. It was only in Konya that I didn't sleep through the pre-dawn call to prayer. The echoing voices called me to the window and I was compelled to open it and stick my head out into the night air. I wanted to not only hear the sound, but to feel it against my face.
We were overwhelmed by the generosity and hospitality of the families who hosted us for meals. We ate at some very fine restaurants, but our favorite meals were those that were prepared for and shared with us by our hosts. I'll never forget the first taste of the delicious garlicky yogurt sauce over the small, linguini-like pasta (monti) or the tightly rolled Dolma that are similar to but so different from the local Dolmades prepared in restaurants here. I had been forewarned by friends that I would be eating a lot in Turkey, and they were right! My first meal was Urfa (ground lamb and beef) with grilled tomatoes, pepper and rice-delicious! Baklava and Kunefe were delightful. The street vendor with his sticky Dondurma ice cream that was cold enough that it could be lifted out of the container was like a street performer with his silly tricks with the cones and banging in the bell. I loved the white bean and red sauce that I had at Sakayra University, as well as the "Milk pudding" that reminded me of Creme Brulee. Cherries, lettuce, watermelon and my favorite, cucumbers, were fresh and delicious. I never imagined eating cucumbers, cheese, bread and coffee for breakfast, but found that I liked it very much.
Images that will stick with me include : the man who could carry a tray of 13 trembling glass tea cups on saucers up the tilting ladder of the boat that we were riding on the Bosphorus; the first glimpse of the wind swept landscape of Cappadocia; the full moon shining over the Bosphorus, over the lovely outdoors dining are by a stream where we were hosted by the administration from Sakayra over the minarets of Konya, and over the terrace on the roof of the small hotel where er stayed in Cappadocia; the views of the plains edged by bluish mountains as we drove across Turkey; the expression in the whirling dervish's face as he carefully hopped his right foot over his left foot-spinning planted on Earth and pointing to heaven; the pride and immediate bond we felt with the women who had prepared meals for us in their homes; stories from Herodotus come to life through Heidi Northwood's retelling; Our guide, Ayhan's laughter-almost like a giggle-while our other guide, Cem's shoulders would shake in his silent laughter; the clear blue water of the Mediterranean Sea in Kemer; women in full black dress with only their eyes showing, women in headscarves and trench coats on very hot days, and women in t-shirts and blue jeans; the large desks and offices of the administration at each of the universities we visited, each with a set of chairs and a small table in front of, and a portrait of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk and flags posted behind the desk; the sound of the Turkish language - sometimes sounding almost like an Arabic version of French or German or a Scandinavian language; the smell of meat cooking on the grills and the smell of roasting corn and chestnuts.
Thank you! Tesekkur ederim! This was a trip of a lifetime. Ill always remember it fondly. I look forward to doing my best to match the level of hospitality shown to us by hosting Turkish students in my home. Thank you again.
